Stumpwork was first known as raised embroidery in England in the
16th century. They it faded in popularity for a long time and when
it was revived in the 19th century it became known as stumpwork.
It refers to many different techniques used to create a raised or
dimensional effect to the embroidery. Sometimes parts are padded
under the stitching. Other times parts are created separately and
attached. Most of my work is created separately and attached.
Here are the basic steps for that form of stumpwork.
I like to work on a stiffened fabric when I do design parts that will
be cut out and attached, so I usually fuse two layers of lightweight
fabric together with Wonder Under. This makes the edges stable,
and when cut they do not ravel. I also like to use a fabric that
closely matches the thread color I will be stitching with. Then
when finished and cut, the tiny raw edges will blend and hide better.
Often I will use lightweight China silk and paint it to match the thread
color, but batiste also works well, and percale is acceptable.
This stiffened fabric does not need to be worked in a hoop unless you
would like to.
Trace your petal outlines on the fabric. I often combine 2 or
3 petals together on a pattern. The different pattern pieces need
to be at least ¼" apart t leave you room for cutting. Then couch
fine wire to the outline using small stitches that are about 1/8" apart.
Use sewing thread that matches the fabric for couching.
The outer edge wire needs to be covered with button hole stitches
that are closely spaced to completely hide with wire. They may be
short ones just over the wire, or they may be long ones coming from the
center vein line as shown. If the fabric is pretty, you may choose
to leave the center part exposed, and if you want to shade the colors as
you see in the stargazer lily, work the buttonhole stitches like long
short satin stitches and fill in the center with long short stitches in
the different colors.
The final step is to cut the petal or part from the background
fabric. Use sharp embroidery scissors and cut as close to the row
of buttonhole stitches as possible without clipping any threads.
You now have a petal or group of petals or leaves ready to attach to the
background fabric. Grouped petals are sewn on at the center where
they meet. Single petals or leaves are attached by poking the wire
extensions through the fabric and sewing them in place on the back.
Add stamens and shape all the petals to finish the flower.
