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 If you are unfamiliar with the term, Brazilian
Embroidery, let me tell you a bit about it. The rayon threads used
were originally manufactured in Brazil and the dimensional techniques
using them, although used for centuries in Europe, came to us along with
the thread from Brazil. These rayon threads are manufactured in
shaded and variegated colors as well as solids and come in several
different weights and twists. Now the threads are
manufactured here in the United States by EdMar Co. and others.
Some special needles are used for Brazilian embroidery.
Although crewel or embroidery needles in sizes appropriate for the
thread weight work for most stitches, a milliners needle is needed for
bullion and cast-on type stitches. They are used because the
needle has a small eye that is not wider than the long shaft. This
makes it easier to pull the needle through a long series of wraps or
cast-on stitches. Large darners are also used for the heaviest
threads and in some applications.
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Brazilian Embroidery Threads The threads manufactured by EdMar come in seven different weights
from Nova, a heavy weight 6 ply thread with a medium twist to Glory, a
fine weight 2 ply medium twist thread. The thread has a Z twist,
meaning the plies are twisted together in the opposite direction of
perle cotton, which is an S twist thread. For this reason, some
stitches are done "backward" so the plies will not become untwisted
while working. If you are unfamiliar with Brazilian embroidery
threads, here is a comparison chart with perle cotton and rayon threads.
Notice the difference between the Z and S twist of the threads. |
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Couching: One of the simplest
stitches used in Brazilian embroidery is the couching stitch. It
is done by taking a very long stitch the whole length of a branch and
then couching it down with tiny stitches using the same thread on the
return to the base. By leaving the long stitch a bit loose, you
can follow the curves of the design line as you couch it down. If
the stitches slant the same direction of the thread twist, they will lay
neatly into the thread. |
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Stem Stitch: This basic stitch
will be used often for stems. Worked in Z twist Brazilian threads,
you will work from left to right and throw the thread above the line
with each stitch. Worked in a perle cotton or other S twist
thread, the thread will be held below the line with each stitch.
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Leaf Stitch: This variation of
the satin stitch is a basic for creating leaves in Brazilian embroidery.
Anchor the knot within the leaf and come up at A, at the tip of the
leaf. Go down at B, about 1/3 in from the tip. Work
alternating from the left and right of the tip and always go back down
at the vein, but move the stitches down the vein as well as down the
edges. Like any directional satin stitch, keeping the angle
pleasing is something that requires practice. |
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Bullion Stitch:
This stitch is best worked with a milliners needle. 1.Come up at A and
pull the thread through. Insert needle at B and back out at A but
do not pull the needle through the fabric. Hold the needle and
fabric in your left hand and pick up the thread at A with the right
hand. 2. Wrap the point of the needle with the thread in a
clockwise direction if you are using Brazilian Z twist thread, or
counterclockwise if using perle cotton S twist thread. The wraps
around the needle need to be at least equal to the space between A and
B. For a loop that stands above the fabric, the wrapped area of
the needle needs to be MORE than the distance between A and B on the
fabric. 3. When you have enough wraps on the needle, gently hold
the wraps with one hand and pull the needle through the fabric and wraps
with the other. Pull the thread in an upward motion until the
bullion wraps are nearly down to the fabric. Straighten out the wraps
with the point of your needle, rubbing them under the core thread.
Now pull the thread down toward B. If you hold the wraps at the thread
end under your thumbnail as you pull the thread down it will help keep
them tidy. Finally complete the stitch by taking the needle down
and out at B.
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© 2005 Loretta's Custom Stitchery, all rights
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